1992-2000 Montero (generation 2 and 2.5)
Or any generation 1 Montero/Raider that has been upgraded to Gen 2 steering
The Basic Info:
So you want to run 33 inch or larger tires on that rig of yours, and you plan to wheel it, read below:
The idler arm works to support the pitman arm in the steering system. While your steering box and pitman arm do all of the actual hydraulic to mechanical work; moving the front wheels from left to right, the tie rod ends and drag link carry the force applied from the steering box. The idler arm’s job is to be a passive participant in the steering system, it’s there to support the pitman arm’s movements. The more support it provides, the firmer and more precise the steering is. The bushings the Kingpin shaft ride on are plastic from the factory. Other brands of 4×4’s use a similar style of steering and already have bronze bushings and idler arm upgrades available to them, the Montero will finally catch up to everyone else.
-Factory Idler arms are made of cold drawn, normalized steel, fine for getting your spouse and kids to soccer practice, but not so fine to get your 35″ tire equipped rig through a boulder field then back home without chewing up tires and ruining your steering geometry. A mere 10 millimeters of deflection in the idler arm can completely throw the steering geometry out of alignment, A bent idler arm will result in a “toe-in” or “toe-out” condition making the trip home from off-road unbearable, if possible at all.
- The idler arm is mounted outboard of the frame in front of the axle center line, this means that road dirt, salt, water and debris will come into contact with it every day. The factory bushings for the idler arms are made of plastic and break down quickly.
-Worn idler arm bushings result in steering slop and wander, premature tire wear, outer or inner cupping on the tires and most importantly, an unsafe vehicle to operate at 75 MPH. A worn system will cause the vehicle to follow the cracks in the road, making things unpredictable and requiring extra effort on behalf of the driver.
The new shaft is made of Chromoly Steel and comes with oil
impregnated bronze-nickel bushings. This kit will take a real beating
on the trail and cut down your maintenance effort.
The Chromoly shaft is superior in strength to the factory unit in terms of durability and tensile strength, but what really seals the deal on our idler kit is the factory size replacement bushings, the same bushings that wear out constantly and give your rig that ‘big truck’ loose steering feeling. The new bushings are made of oil impregnated bronze alloy and they’re made to last. So even if you’re only running 31’s and don’t need a Chromoly shaft, get yourself some bushings, firm that steering back up and remind yourself of the handling that helped Mitsubishi rock the Dakar in these trucks.
!! IMPORTANT !!
This kit rebuilds the FACTORY idler housing - You must have a Mitsubishi factory housing - At current time no aftermarket idler arm housings are known to work. You'll be re-using the housing, tension spring, clips, washers and arm with ball joint (can be replaced with a 555 or moog arm. However, purchase at your own risk, we're not responsible for their product variations, if any exist)
Top Shouldered Bushing
New OEM seal
An alternative to our brass bushing enforced chromoly rebuild kit is the turn-key chromoly kit with poly bushings available here:
ADHD Adventure Driven Hardcore Design | Chromoly Idler Kingpin kit |
- Brands Adventure Driven Design
- Product Code: ADHD Chromoly Kingpin Kit
- Availability: Out Of Stock
- Ex Tax: $225.00