The quickest, easiest way to clear 33's on a budget.

You might think of a body lift as not an ideal lift, but you might have bias due to how american trucks have been built over the years, read the anecdotal exchange below for a humorous explanation.

You: Body lifts!?

ADD: Body lifts!

You: Isn't that a bad idea?

ADD: Nah! On an American truck, maybe. American trucks show a lot more frame from the factory, so putting a body lift on most American trucks will create a window into their soul, or at least a gap to see through the truck between the frame and body... However! on Japanese trucks this is not the case, J-tin trucks tuck the frame really well and have a lower center of gravity, part of why they handle better from the factory, you can run up to a 3" body lift without exposing much frame, and you make a LOT of space for big tires.

You: ok.... but a suspension lift is still better, right?

ADD: That all depends on how you use your truck, the factory suspension is quite robust and needs little upgrades to do a lot of work, if you're an overlander or light wheeler, even a mall crawler (there's no shame in a cool looking truck) the factory suspension is probably fine for you. If you scoff at the idea of removing sway bars, a body lift is likely for you. If you want to clear 35" tires without rubbing, but spent all of your money on tires, gears and other parts and want that stuff on your truck sooner than you can afford a full suspension lift, then a body lift will be for you. There's a lot of reasons to run a body lift and we wont tell you not to.

Over the years we've run from 1" to 3" body lifts and from stock tires to 37" tires. We've sized this kit up for the maximum lift involving the least amount of work. At 1-3/4" you'll have the least amount of modification involving your lines, electrical wiring and shifter movement. There's not much to installing a body lift, but check the forums for details, there are a few things you need to be aware of when doing a body lift; be cautious of any electrical, hydraulic, or mechanical connection between the frame and body, the radiator will rise with this mod so either adjust the holes on the radiator by 1.75", or risk running warm without the lower shroud in place, lower shroud removal has proven to suffice in colder climates and for shorter periods of time, but in the southwest, expect to properly lower your radiator to retain optimal performance.

Application: Gen 1 and 2 Montero, Montero Sport and Mighty Max

lift: 1-3/4" &  3" kits

Kit includes: all mounts, bolts, washers and nuts. Everything you need to get it done and nothing more. (photo shows montero kits, less pucks and different hardware than the mighty max.

Price includes shipping

These kits ship on average of 3 weeks after order, each kit is made to order. Made in the USA, made with American Materials. Subject to material lead times.
Attn: currently being CNC made, pre-production sale runs until 5-30-24